Autumn is a great time to visit Scotland – especially for a road trip around the beautiful, yet highly underrated Argyll region. Together with my partner and our friends from Vienna, I set out for three days of adventuring – and this is my guide for re-creating the perfect Argyll road trip.

This post contains affiliate links which I may make a commission from. Find out more here. Avis gifted me the hire car for this trip. All opinions are my own.

Scotland is top-notch road trip territory, but to be honest, there are two things that can turn a fun day on the road into a drag: lots of traffic and masses of tourists. Both combined are basically what you can expect when you’re on a road trip along Scotland’s most popular routes in the Highlands during the summer. That’s why we waited until autumn for our adventure and chose a road less travelled. Our Argyll road trip was the perfect start into the new season and a great way for my friends from Vienna to explore Scotland’s off-beat countryside for the very first time!

We had decided to travel by car – which is by far my favourite mode of transportation when you explore Scotland individually – and rented a car with Avis. The rental process was super smooth and Tom who processed my reservation at the Glasgow office, gave us lots of tips and information around the car – and a song that would stick with me for the entire weekend (Don’t Let Go by En Vogue). No regrets.

Nervous about driving? Learn about UK traffic rules & etiquette with the useful online guide by Tripiamo.

If you are here for inspiration for a Scotland staycation, you should also read my guide to adding oomph to your staycation!

Argyll, Scotland is top road trip territory - lots to explore & many adventures are just waiting for you. This is my guide to the perfect Argyll road trip!
Photo by Patrick Wally

Back to our trip. On a serene September Friday night, we packed our things into the rental car and drove 2.5 hours from Glasgow to a tiny seaside village in Argyll called Craobh Haven. I’m super happy we got the driving bit out of the way, even though it meant arriving in the dark. That way we could maximise our time in Argyll and were in for a stunning surprise waking up to the view over the marina the next morning!

We had booked a lovely cottage by the seaside (Craobh Marina Cottages) which had two bedrooms and a lounge with a wood-burning stove. The night was spent with a late dinner in the cottage and a few pints of ale at the local pub. The perfect kick-off to a great weekend!

Craobh Marina Cottages is one of my accommodation favourites! Check out more Unique Places to Stay in Scotland!

If you have more time, why not check out this 8-day journey through Argyll!

Argyll Road Trip

Day 1: Kintyre Peninsula

Inspired by Paul McCartney’s Mull of Kintyre we decided to spend the first day of our Argyll road trip exploring the Kintyre Peninsula. The peninsula is really off the beaten track – more island than mainland -, and there was hardly any traffic on the road.

Our first stop was the small village of Kilmartin where we visited the carved stones in the historical graveyard and walked among the tall standing stones. There are five standing stones erected approximately 3,200 years ago in a specific alignment with the sun. Unfortunately, it was a rather rainy day, so we jumped back into the car and hit the road again.

Find out more about these + more things to do in Kilmartin Glen!

Argyll, Scotland is top road trip territory - lots to explore & many adventures are just waiting for you. This is my guide to the perfect Argyll road trip!
Photo by Patrick Wally

By the time we reached the shore of Loch Fyne, it was lunch time and we found a little cafe in Ardrishaig (The Rumblin’ Tum) that served up vegan soup, fried seafood and fresh chips.

While there would be many stops on the Kintyre Peninsula, the weather didn’t show any signs of getting any better. So we decided to experience the landscape from the car and make our way all the way down to the Mull of Kintyre in one sitting (~2h after lunch). Had we had more time and sunshine, I would have loved to visit a whisky distillery in Campbelltown, climb up to Tarbert Castle, do a day trip to the Isle of Gigha, or simply take a long walk along the beaches. Next time!

We finally reached the Mull of Kintyre after 7 dreadful miles on a mountainous single track road – the word mull  (or Gaelic maol) doesn’t refer to mountain for nothing. Sometimes reaching Scotland’s most beautiful spots takes a bit of a sacrifice! The drive, however, was like a Scottish mini-safari, as along the road we spotted female deer munching in the high grass, a male deer looking out for his mates high up on a hill, a few sheep and of course cattle grazing on the side of the road.

The lighthouse at the bottom of the Mull of Kintyre cannot be reached by car, so we followed the narrow road towards it on foot. The views over to Northern Ireland were magnificent, despite the rain. However, the lighthouse was still quite a trek away though, so, conscious of the time, we turned around and ascended back to the car.

You might also like: 13 Things to do on the Kintyre Peninsula

Argyll, Scotland is top road trip territory - lots to explore & many adventures are just waiting for you. This is my guide to the perfect Argyll road trip!
Argyll, Scotland is top road trip territory - lots to explore & many adventures are just waiting for you. This is my guide to the perfect Argyll road trip!

Back on the main road, the rain finally stopped and – see there – the sun came out! The drive back up towards Craobh Haven was magnificent and the views over to the mountains of the Isle of Jura was just stunning!Day one of our Argyll road trip was quite a long day and a lot of time was spent on the road. I was glad we booked a second driver for the car so that I could sit back and relax as we zoomed along the coast into the sunset.

Happy, tired and hungry we returned to our cottage and our evening was filled yet again with a homemade meal, a few ales at the pub and finally a cosy night by the fire.

You might also like: 20 Beautiful Towns to Visit in Scotland

Day 2: Loch Awe & Oban

Even though day two of our Argyll road trip had less time on the road on the schedule, I was really happy we had booked the fully care-free insurance package that Tom had recommended upon pickup. Scotland’s roads are notorious for being narrow and winding, but nothing beats a hilly single track road through the forest along a loch…

After about an hour we reached Ardbrecknish, a small village on the eastern shore of Loch Awe, one of Scotland’s most beautiful lakes, if I may add! A boat trip was on top of my friends’ Scotland bucket list, so we rented a little open boat with an engine at Loch Awe Boats and made our way north. Our goal was to reach Kilchurn Castle, which might just be one of Scotland’s most photographed landmarks. It sticks out over the water in the northern corner of the lake, and while you can reach it on land, arriving over the water gave our only castle visit of the trip a special edge.

You might also like: Fun Micro Adventures in Argyll – From Hiking to Star Gazing

Like Vikings, we approached the rocky peninsula the castle rests upon. Instead of aiming for the old wooden jetty, we landed the boat on a sandy beach – or well, got stuck on the sandbank a few meters off the shore… Out of the boat, into the shallow water – thank God for wellies – we pulled the boat as far as we could, set up a make-shift pale to tie it to and continued our attack of the castle.

The castle itself lies in ruins but can be visited for free. There are info boards around the building and a few wooden staircases have been erected to give you an idea of the kind of views you would get defending the castle walls. We spent about an hour around the castle, taking many photos – and struggling to get the boat out of the shallow water again… 3 hours of rental should suffice, considering that it’s about 1 hour by boat from Loch Awe Boats to the castle!

Argyll, Scotland is top road trip territory - lots to explore & many adventures are just waiting for you. This is my guide to the perfect Argyll road trip!
Argyll, Scotland is top road trip territory - lots to explore & many adventures are just waiting for you. This is my guide to the perfect Argyll road trip!
Argyll, Scotland is top road trip territory - lots to explore & many adventures are just waiting for you. This is my guide to the perfect Argyll road trip!

The next stop of our journey was Oban. The route leads along Loch Awe and past Kilchurn Castle again, before it bends up towards Loch Etive and follows its shores. It definitely is one of my favourite drives in Scotland! We arrived in Oban slightly too late for the whisky distillery (it closes at 5 pm on weekends), but at the perfect time for a fish & chips supper by the harbour!

While there are many excellent seafood restaurants in Oban, I prefer getting a takeaway and eating by the harbour front if the weather allows it. George Street Fish & Chips serves several veggie options, and their veggie haggis is actually vegan!

From Oban, it was a quick drive home to Craobh Haven, and with a full belly there was nothing left to do, but enjoy the sunset over the marina.

You might also like: Practical Guide to Hiring a Car in Scotland

Argyll, Scotland is top road trip territory - lots to explore & many adventures are just waiting for you. This is my guide to the perfect Argyll road trip!

Day 3: Ardkinglas Woodland Garden

Day three of our Argyll road trip was really only a half day because we had to first get the cottage back into its original state and then return the car in Glasgow by 5 pm.

An unfortunate (yet not fatal) lorry accident on the road between Craobh Haven and Lochgilphead caused us some delay and meant that we had to return to Glasgow via Oban. Luckily, the second stop in Oban was highly appreciated – now that the Oban Distillery was open and my friends could finally buy their souvenirs!

Back on the road, we chose the much quieter road towards Inveraray and visited Ardkinglas Woodland Garden, a serene natural retreat I had first visited on a road trip to Dunoon. The garden was a welcome stop before returning to the city bustle of Glasgow. There are a few trails leading up and down the hilly slope of the garden, and several info boards explaining more about the unique flora you can find here. The garden is home to some of Scotland’s highest trees, among which is a fir tree that measures over 64m and another one that has 4-in-1 trunks which makes it wider than any other tree in the garden. Allow about an hour to an hour and a half to explore the garden and rest a little bit.

You might also like: 2 Weeks on the West Coast of Scotland [Itinerary]

Argyll, Scotland is top road trip territory - lots to explore & many adventures are just waiting for you. This is my guide to the perfect Argyll road trip!

A particular favourite of mine is the Rest and Be Thankful car park high above the village of Arrochar. Stopping here to take in the views, but also to think back of all the adventures we had during the weekend, is the perfect ending to a great Argyll road trip!

Argyll, Scotland is top road trip territory - lots to explore & many adventures are just waiting for you. This is my guide to the perfect Argyll road trip!
Photo by Patrick Wally
Argyll, Scotland is top road trip territory - lots to explore & many adventures are just waiting for you. This is my guide to the perfect Argyll road trip!

Argyll is full of adventures and surprises, and an Argyll road trip is the ideal way to uncover some of these hidden gems and explore Scotland off the beaten track. Three days are hardly enough to scratch the surface, but the perfect amount for a taster of the highlights.

Have you ever been to Argyll or the Kintyre Peninsula? Would love to hear your experiences and what else I might add to my next Argyll road trip!


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Argyll, Scotland is top road trip territory - lots to explore & many adventures are just waiting for you. This is my guide to the perfect Argyll road trip!

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15 thoughts on “The Best of Argyll: A 3-Day Itinerary for Argyll

  1. Sara and Sean says:

    Great road trip around Argyll. As you mention there is so much to see and do here in Argyll. Next time we would recommend visiting the Knapdale Forest and Taynish National Nature Reserve. So beautiful and remote with many way marked trails. Perfect for walking and wildlife spotting. There is a wildlife centre in the forest where you can find out more about the beavers that live there. The Crinan canal is also very beautiful, described as Scotland’s most beautiful shortcut. You can walk or cycle the whole nine miles from Ardrishaig to Crinan.

    • Kathi says:

      Hi Sara & Sean, thanks a lot for these additional tips! There truly is so much to do and see in Argyll – I hope to be back very soon! Btw. I’ve added your B&B to my vegan Scotland blog post – love seeing what you do 🙂 Cheers, Kathi

  2. Sanne says:

    Hi Kathi
    I’m currently in Airbnb”skerry cabin” google’ing inspiration what to do tomorrow after horse riding in Oban and how funny to come across your website and recognising you as we’ve emailed back and forth about my Japan guest blog on travelettes 3 years ago. Great pictures! Went to kilchurn yesterday but by boat is def even better. Hope you’re doing well!
    Sanne

    • Kathi says:

      I just looked up that cabin and saved it for a later trip. What a gorgeous place! How funny you came across my blog and remembered – such nice connections 😀 I hope you’re having a great time in Argyll and Oban. Kilmartin Glen and Inveraray are two really wonderful places!! ENjoy!

  3. Anne Blimkie (nee Macklem) says:

    Hi Kathi! I’ve been researching Scotland travel info for the last year, intent on visiting spring 2019 !! I am loving your site and info. It’s some of the best I’ve come across !! I plan to explore Scotland by first doing the Edinburgh marathon in May and then staying on. It’s my retirement gift to myself at 60 !! I figure if I’m there I want to see it all. And I’m so totally intrigued after reading the Outlander series !! I think I will have to stay 4 or 5 months!! I don’t know who I’ll miss more, my husband, my daughter, or my hound !! It will be hard. But I am so up for this journey.
    I plan to use all your valuable information to plan my journey. I’d like to stay a week (at Least) in each major city. I don’t think I’ll rent a car. I wanna see lots of castles and stay at least a week on the Isle of Skye. And I plan to do some hiking and camping along the way. Now I guess, I just have to figure out what direction I’m heading and when and put some bookings in place!!!
    In all honesty, I was thinking of either doing Scotland or hiking the Appalachian trail, but Scotland is just calling my name, what can I say. THANK YOU for sharing !! It will help me immensely !”

    • Kathi says:

      Hi Anne, thanks for your comment – I’m so happy to hear that you enjoy my website and find the information I provide useful! Your plan sounds amazing – travel is the best gift you can give yourself and you really deserve it!! You’ll love Scotland, there is so much to do and see and if you bring that much time with you, you’ll be able to cover a lot. Have you thought about hiking a long-distance trail here? The West Highland Way is very popular, but there are loads of other trails (more info: https://watchmesee.com/blog/long-distance-walks-in-scotland-on-my-bucket-list/). I’m planning to walk the Hebridean Way this summer and will definitely report back about that. Let me know how you get on with your travel prep 🙂

      • Jasmin says:

        Hi Kathy, what an amazing website, what an amazing and truly inspirational person you are. I almost want to pack my bag and pop on the train like…NOW! I just found out your website and scrolling away like a little kid who’s just been given her first sweet!
        Honestly, it’s fantastic what you do and how you share your ideas, travel and not to mention photography. Very inspiring.
        I have long Summer so was thinking of doing Scotland in August (despite of midges? – wonder if that’s a myth or do those monsters really exist in such high numbers!?).
        Now, I have no idea what to see, where to go – as in a route…Obviously, it’ll be a carefully planned trip with budgets in mind. I’d love to hire a car in order to see as much as possible, but also keen on hiking and photography of course (very keen amateur!).
        I wonder if perhaps you are/or thinking of a organised kind of trip? If so, I’d love to sign up :).
        If not, then any info / ideas of “the best bits” would be muchly appreciated. Never even crossed the boarder so no idea of what Scotland is really like but I have googled few times and saw few programmes that make me feel that Scotland is pure magic in so many ways and I am so excited that I will have the opportunity to vising one day soon.
        Thank you so much in advance, I hope you are having a lovely Monday. From Westminster with love, Jasmin 🙂

        • Kathi says:

          Hi Jasmin,
          many thanks for your comment and your kind words! Hosting tours is definitely something I’m thinking about for the future, but for now, I specialise in planning and reviewing itineraries. If you’d like any concrete help with your trip, check my consultation page and send me an email: https://watchmesee.com/watch-me-see-scotland-travel-consultation/
          The midges get indeed quite bad in the summer, but it always depends on where you are and what the weather has been like – last year, for example, it was so hot and dry for weeks on end, that the midges weren’t too bad (the horseflies were horrible though), but then as soon as it rains for a day or two, they hatch and get really bad… It’s best to be prepared with some midge repellant (I use Smidge – check my packing list for more info). They are usually not out during the day, but active in the morning and evening, so unless you are camping, you can avoid them pretty easily most of the time. If you are camping, bring or buy a midge net to keep them out of your face.
          I hope that you enjoy planning your holiday (or get in touch if you’d like any help). Enjoy the rest of your week! Kathi

  4. Pingback: Watch Me See Featuring Argyll

  5. Susanne Arbuckle says:

    You visited some of my favourite places, what a great road-trip! I’ve always meant to hire a boat on Loch Awe but haven’t got got round to it yet so I’m quite jealous and bumping it up my must-do list . Fantastic photos too 🙂

    • Kathi says:

      Thanks Susanne! I’m so glad we went for the boat rental to visit Kilchurn Castle, but wish we would have had more time to also explore all the islands in the loch! Next time I’ll have to make a full day trip out of it, instead of pushing on to Oban!

    • Kathi says:

      Yeah, it’s such an underrated area, but so much to see. I love it there! I use a mix between a Canon 5D Mark II and a Canon M3 which is a mirrorless camera. My photos on this post were all shot on the M3, except one of the lighthouse photos I think… Using Lightroom for editing is really important as well though!

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